Mandala Direct Video

Wade David posted some footage of my FA last spring of Mandala Direct (V12).

Wade relocated the footage to Vimeo...


And since I can't have a post with no pictures in it...

Don't try this at home. I went first so I could hang out on big holds, while everyone else was in varying degrees of discomfort... especially Drew at the bottom on the small holds.

Me, Eric, Nate, Jim, and Drew on The Hunk (V2), Buttermilks.


photos - Adam Stoltenberg

And if you want more of The Mandala, check out my first post in the archive section over there somewhere ------------------>

Integration

Vic Copeland did the first ascent of Integration (V8ish) this past weekend near the tablelands. He posted a little blurb about it on bishopbouldering.blogspot.com. Jeff H., Wills, and I checked it out yesterday...

It starts on a perfect sloper rail and climbs straight up on really cool edges. Sort of reminds me of Joe's Valley except that it's solid mud instead of perfect sandstone.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

There's a little "fall in the creek" potential on the topout, but the jug probably won't break...

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Wills pulling through the crux...

photo - Jeff Sillcox

The original plan was to climb it by headlights since it's right off the road which would have made for really cool pictures. Something like this, but with a climber on it... you get the idea.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Big Sends

Lisa Rands finished the Mandala (V12) today, beating Eric to the first female ascent. Here she is working it last spring:

This huge deadpoint was the crux for Lisa, while pulling through off the tiny crimp is the crux for most of us (2nd picture).



photos - Jeff Sillcox

Neither move looked hard today, so as soon as she hit the crimp in the right spot, the rest was a formality.

Matt Birch made a quick ascent of Direction (V13) and Wills and I both fell off the end of it. I finished my day with perhaps the most impressive send of the day: An untied-approach-shoe-flash of a problem that was supposed to take me at least six tries... unfortunately, it was on plastic at Andrew's home wall. And Wills salvaged his day by shooting video of Lisa on the Mandala that will surely show up on one of those other climbing websites soon.

The Good Mud

With the Buttermilks still melting out, Jim and I were forced to spend a lot of time in the tablelands. And while it's not the perfect rock we'd like to be climbing on, there's still some pretty good mud to play around on.

Jim getting crushed on attempt #20 on Orange Crush (V7), Happy Boulders

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Powering up for the send with a rock that looks freakishly like a chocolate chip cookie

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Jim sending Orange Crush (V7)

video - Jeff Sillcox
edited by - Jim Sillcox

Andrew, Jim, and Eric on Los Locos (V7), Sad Boulders

photos - Jeff Sillcox

Eric found an easier way on, but since the crux is at the end...

photo - Jim Sillcox

Jim trying to find his way out of the dark on Enter the Dragon (V9), Sad Boulders

photo - Jeff Sillcox

This one's been on my list for a long time... Lawnmower Man (V7), Sad Boulders

video - Jim Sillcox

Eric, running a second lap on Grindrite (V3), Happy Boulders

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Eric hoping he doesn't roll down the hill on Atari (V6), Happy Boulders

photo - Jim Sillcox

Jeff Honeywell wondering how he's going to top it out with me hanging over the top taking pictures

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Jeff H. sending Atari (V6)

video - Jim Sillcox

Jeff H. squeezing his way up Not Another Brit in Bishop (V7), Happy Boulders

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Ol' Man River

Sorry for the quick bump Eric, but Blogmania must go on. And you live in LA and I shoveled an LA touron out so Ipso facto, I'm your boss.

Some clowns from LA trying to drive their two wheel drive SUV through a foot of snow...

photo - Jim Sillcox

Since the big storm, this has been the only climbable piece of rock above 6000 feet.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Hey Andy, want to pad-sled the Grandpa Peabody?

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Jim trying to find some sun on Not the Clapper (V1), Happies (yes, he's wearing a wetsuit)

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Ol' Man River downclimbing Old Ass Truck (V96) (also his age). We've spent more time digging people out (of our way) than climbing.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Jim recovering from a football in the groin...

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Me working Direction (V13), (yes, I would try to top it out if I got up there)

photo - Jim Sillcox

So, for anyone planning on going to the Buttermilks this weekend, bring your own shovel because I'm leaving mine at home this time.