Chumscrubber

That was fast. Here's the footage of Nic killing Chumscrubber (V12) today. Photos soon if I don't get lazy.

video - Andrew Stevens
edit - Dom Palmero

Spectre

Since I'm getting a lot of complaints about lack of updates... here's some footage of Cory sending Spectre (V13) to hold you over. I went back out there with him Monday night to shoot a few photos and he fired the crux section over and over in 85 degree heat with mosquitoes swarming everywhere.



One of these days I'll get off my butt and post some photos from Joe's Valley and maybe even some sportclimbing shots from Red Rocks.

Lots of sending

Let's start with the biggest send of all...


Okay, now that we have that out of the way... Lisa sent Haroun and the Sea of Stories (V11/12ish) this morning!




photos - Jeff Sillcox

More photos of Lisa on Haroun on Wills' blog.

Cory crushed Form Destroyer (V12) this afternoon after I broke part of the starting hold.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

I managed to climb Xavier's Roof (V11) and A Maze of Death (V12) on back to back days. Photo of Justin sending Xavier's Roof on Wills' blog. And a couple of me on A Maze of Death.


photos - Alex Johnson

And Alex finished up A Birthing Experience (V1) after a couple days of work...

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Almost

A tribute to almost finishing your project...

Andrew almost sending Stained Glass (V10)

photos - Jeff Sillcox

He's had his tips over the lip of the jug a couple times now. Only a matter of time...

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Charlie almost sending Evilution (V12)

photo - Andrew Stevens

Sometimes there's a happy ending. I almost sent The Buttermilker (V13) a bunch of times before it finally happened.

photo - Andrew Stevens

Me almost trying to finish Zen Flute (V10)

Video - Andrew Stevens

Nate almost committing to the upper moves of The Fall Guy (V9)

Video - Andrew Stevens

Me almost sending Direction (V13)

Video - Eric Lang

Haroun and the Sea of Stories

As promised, here's the footage of Jeremy sending Haroun and the Sea of Stories

Video - Jeff Sillcox (shot with Andrew's fancy new camera)

Aren't you impressed that I kept him in the frame while I ran up the slab pointing the camera at him blindly?

Also, check out Wills's's blog for a badass photo of Jeremy running laps on This Side of Paradise at the Bardini's.

New Way Lake Highball

*** Video added below ***

Quick update from Way Lake yesterday. Andrew sent Crimp Ladder (V7) after fine-tuning his beta by falling off the last move a few times.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Jeff Honeywell finished off the burly Karate Kid (V8) after the hold breakage (by him).


photos - Jeff Sillcox

And I did one of my highball projects without dying. The picture doesn't really do it justice. It's about 25 ft to the top of the face (roughly V4) and if you fall off the last move, you might get lucky and land on the pads or you might take the 30+ ft fall into the pit (don't do it). Andrew shot some video of it so we'll get that up soon. Maybe I'll have a name for it by then too.

Andrew trying the line

photo - Jeff Sillcox

The highball video... still no name yet

video - Andrew Stevens

I wandered around for a while after Jeff and Andrew took off and put up a very nice 15 ft V2 face on perfect rock. Took a few more pictures also. (Andrew, this is where the climbing ends, so look away and go upload the highball video.)

This is where the mosquitoes live

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Mammoth Mountain from the backside of Emerald Lake at sunset

photo - Jeff Sillcox

School's cancelled... for the Tram-ulites

Words fail me at this point...

Watch my icy hot super slide!
Photo by Abbie Mood

Although it may appear that the Tram looks like a rockin' good time, it is really only fun if you enjoy throngs of screaming children that have likely never seen snow before. Most of the very limited amount of Tram we saw was snow covered or wet. Temps were nice and the snow will probably be at a more managable level in a month or so. I am finally starting to get pysched for the spring and summer seasons (since the winter has been so whacky). Here are 2 videos recapping the days events... Abbie was more successful...

After much searching there actually was some sending to be done, but not by me... all I did was cry...

Abbie trying to capture the dream...
Photo by Eric

Abbie on "Unknown" V3/4
Photo by Eric

Photo by Eric

Just another layer to the legend... Abbie is a human onion...
Photo by Eric

Viva la Tram!!!

Meat Bump

Somehow we returned from Hueco with only one problem on video. And since we're lazy, it comes to you unedited with no music.

Eric sending Speed Bump (V7) AKA Meat Bump

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Back on the east side, Wills, Jeff H., and I had a quick night session on Brian's Project (V8 or 9) last week. It's a fun, squeezy problem on the west side of the Buttermilk Stem boulder. Wills put the problem up a couple seasons ago and quickly repeated it several times after we refined our beta.

Wills on his third lap

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Jeff would have sent it if I hadn't been firing my flash off while he was trying to climb. (And the four giant holes in his fingers didn't help either.)

photo - Jeff Sillcox

5 second exposure of Jeff trying to find footholds in the dark.

Mandala Direct Video

Wade David posted some footage of my FA last spring of Mandala Direct (V12).

Wade relocated the footage to Vimeo...


And since I can't have a post with no pictures in it...

Don't try this at home. I went first so I could hang out on big holds, while everyone else was in varying degrees of discomfort... especially Drew at the bottom on the small holds.

Me, Eric, Nate, Jim, and Drew on The Hunk (V2), Buttermilks.


photos - Adam Stoltenberg

And if you want more of The Mandala, check out my first post in the archive section over there somewhere ------------------>

The Good Mud

With the Buttermilks still melting out, Jim and I were forced to spend a lot of time in the tablelands. And while it's not the perfect rock we'd like to be climbing on, there's still some pretty good mud to play around on.

Jim getting crushed on attempt #20 on Orange Crush (V7), Happy Boulders

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Powering up for the send with a rock that looks freakishly like a chocolate chip cookie

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Jim sending Orange Crush (V7)

video - Jeff Sillcox
edited by - Jim Sillcox

Andrew, Jim, and Eric on Los Locos (V7), Sad Boulders

photos - Jeff Sillcox

Eric found an easier way on, but since the crux is at the end...

photo - Jim Sillcox

Jim trying to find his way out of the dark on Enter the Dragon (V9), Sad Boulders

photo - Jeff Sillcox

This one's been on my list for a long time... Lawnmower Man (V7), Sad Boulders

video - Jim Sillcox

Eric, running a second lap on Grindrite (V3), Happy Boulders

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Eric hoping he doesn't roll down the hill on Atari (V6), Happy Boulders

photo - Jim Sillcox

Jeff Honeywell wondering how he's going to top it out with me hanging over the top taking pictures

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Jeff H. sending Atari (V6)

video - Jim Sillcox

Jeff H. squeezing his way up Not Another Brit in Bishop (V7), Happy Boulders

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Da Deeerrrty Souf' (The Southeast)

Although my blog-posting whereabouts during Jeff's "Blogmania 2007-2008" were not fully understood by modern scientists, one thing is for sure; it was not due to training for a half-marathon. During the time in question, I would describe my daily training routine as nothing short of lazy, "non-training" for a half-marathon, and trying to prevent my entire left arm from falling off due to numerous "chinks" in the soft tissue armor...

Now that my half-marathon is complete (with unexpected success), I can dedicate a very limited portion of my highly valuable time to entertaining you (the reader) and Jeff (my blog-nazi boss). The rest (a significantly larger portion) of my time will be dedicated to training and trying not to fall so far behind my cohort. Sorry readers, I've got a madman to catch, and i only know one (well maybe more than one) way to do it....

So other than gyroballin’, I’ll probably spend my time climbing in Bishop (weather permitting), doing some exercising (to get down to my fighting weight… you know, in case I get in a fight), and looking at pictures and videos of rock climbing!

Lately, I've been thinking about how much I miss climbing in the south east… little tiny chicken sandwiches from Krystal Burger, fresh cinnamon biscuits from Bojangles, the terrified looks of hostesses at the Golden Corral as a family of 800 pound people arrive in their Ford F-450000 wearing tool belts filled with silverware (well maybe that’s a bit of an over exaggeration)…. Oh yea, there’s some bouldering there too!

Eric showing he knows how to be America's Next Top Model on Sherman Photo Roof(V7, Rocktown, GA)

Photo by Mike Hartley

Some may not know where Eric, the "Great White," ends and Great White (V7, Horse Pens 40, AL) begins... although others may know...

Photo by Mike Hartley

Derek Spencer staring fondly into his glazing gobe...or is it gazing globe...or is he simply climbing The Orb (V8, Rocktown, GA)?

Photo by Mike Hartley

Eric about to fall into the Cahulawassee River while reaching for his banjo...errrr... or on Slabalicious (V7, Horse Pens 40, AL)

Photo by Mike Hartley

Unlike Derek, Eric likes his Orb (V8, Rocktown, GA) smothered, covered, and topped (that sounds dirty) just like his Wafflehouse hashbrowns... mmm
Photo by Mike Hartley

Eric showing how cool his hand is on Super Koola (V6, Horse Pens 40, AL), but who can eat more eggs than Luke???
Photo by Mike Hartley

Sorry about the lack of diversity and the quality of the photos, as they are old and small. The southeast is actually an awesome place with great climbing and nice people. If you ever want to do some pullin' on some sweet stone, then look no further than Horse Pens 40, Rocktown, Boone, Little Rock City, Boat Rock, etc. Just makes sure you check the weather conveniently located on the sidebar of the page! Someday, I'll have to get Jeff down there so he can be right at home with all the sandbagging...

Next... Hueco!

Tramway & Jupiter

Despite the weather looking crappy for most of the US, I finally made a trip down to Southern CA to check out the Tramway. Saturday was brutal. The temperature never made it into the 30's and it was snowing lightly for a lot of the day. Somehow I managed quick sends of Angus, Soul Caliber, and Left Hand of Darkness (all V9ish) without freezing to death. I think the perfect friction and Eric's beta may have had something to do with it. I had a couple close calls with flashing my first V9: I overshot the finishing crimp on Soul Caliber and then crushed it 2nd try. Then I fell off Left Hand of Darkness with the top in my hand.

Calling dab on myself and then sending Angus (V9)

video - Eric Lang

Left Hand of Darkness (V9)

video - Eric Lang

Sunday we drove back towards San Jacinto and bailed on Tramway because of a bunch of new snow, so we checked out the Jupiter Boulders. The rock is very good polished granite in a weird setting. There is an unofficial urban-redneck firing range a quarter mile from the boulders so there is constant gunfire to go along with the highway noise.

Click the photo for the weekend's gallery of the Tramway and a couple problems from the Jupiter Boulders.

Eric on Soul Caliber (V9)
photos - Jeff Sillcox

Dodging bullets on Air Flash Gordon (V8) @ the Jupiter Boulders (yes, the video says it's Unemployed Black Astronaut and I'm too lazy to fix it)

video - Eric Lang

The Fragile Peach

Nate on The Fall Guy (V9) at the Buttermilks (top picture, I'm not sure what's going on in the bottom one) - photos - Jeff Sillcox

Nate "Salt 'n' Pepper" Peach and his friend Nik were in a bad car accident on the way to Joe's Valley a couple weeks ago. Nate broke his neck and collar bone and will be in a neck brace for six weeks playing a lot of video games. Nik walked away and was climbing the next morning in Joe's (this was his sixth car accident this year so he's had a lot of practice).

If you're going to flip a car end over end five times, try it in a Forester... might keep you alive even if the airbags don't go off.


Nate training for the next time an old man comes at him on the wrong side of the highway...


And finally, before we move on to the climbing portion of the blog, here's some footage of a very similar accident...

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One of the better problems we did in Joe's was The Wind Below (V8), a very tall steep face with big moves between big holds. I managed to flash up to the last hard move and jumped off because I got scared and pumped trying every move three different ways before committing. After botching a move on my second go, I looked at the top of the boulder and decided I wanted to be up there and sent. Ben and Jeff H. did it quickly also and Nik tried dynoing for the lip at 20+ feet a few times before realizing that his nine lives were running short.

Nik on The Wind Below (V8)
photo - Jeff Sillcox

Here's a little gallery with a few other shots from the trip (click the photo for the gallery):

photos - Jeff Sillcox

Eric showed up right when it got really cold and sent his nemesis from the spring, Resident Evil (V10) in an anticlimactic two tries.

Eric sticking the first move of Resident Evil (V10)
photo - Jeff Sillcox

Then it was a whirlwind trip back to the east coast for Thanksgiving and route setting for a comp at Vertical Extreme with Drew "DUI" Davis. I set a V8 version of Black Lung and got black lung from breathing shredded tire dust all week. I won't go into details of the comp, but I will say that Drew and I should probably retire from route setting after putting on such a perfect comp.