Sunday, March 29, 2009

Dongle Goblin

Eric and I spent the day at the Boneyard today since it was crazy windy at the Buttermilks. Conditions were just about perfect. Eric did a bunch of problems including an impressive flash of Jeff's Mantle (V5/6ish) and the second ascent of Lichen Poisoning (V8). I repeated a few problems and then set to work on a project next to Twin Dongs. I was psyched to do the stand start in a few tries since it felt impossible a year ago. It's called Dongle Goblin and I think it's hard V9 or V10.

The first move is a giant lockoff to a sloping crimp.

photo - Eric Lang

Then you setup for the crux and jump to a good sloping dish.

photos - Eric Lang

Then I figured out the sit start moves and fell off the end a few times. It will be pretty hard.

photo - Eric Lang

Another big lockoff

photo - Eric Lang

My head about to explode

photos - Eric Lang

And here's a random photo of a Joshua Tree near Las Vegas.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Drop your knee... other knee...

Andrew wanted to prove to me, once and for all, that Senior citizens, while slow and dangerous behind the wheel, can serve a purpose! (I feel like we've used that quote before on this very blog...)

After Andrew's previous attempts at sending Stained Glass, we didn't think he could be any closer and NOT send... but we were wrong. We don't have any pictures, but he may still be hanging from the jug, slowly falling.

Later that day, we went over to a problem that Andrew had never tried; Seven Spanish Angels or The Ruckus. Yea... that's right... 400 years of climbing (250 of them in Bishop) and he had never tried this problem. So he was going to try and flash it.

photos by Eric Lang

He didn't... Notice in the second picture where his head is looking (i.e. not at the jug he is dynoing for...)

But he did send easily, third go (after another attempt at not looking at the hold).

Andrew sending Seven Spanish Angels V6
Photo by Eric Lang

Later that day we (Wes and I) decided to take advantage of the cool lighting brought on by a storm.... Here is Wes being glorious...

Wes using his powers of color-necromancy to "liven-up" this field...
Photo by Eric Lang

And Wes's shirt being awesome, all by itself.

I drew the zebra blue because I've never seen a blue zebra before. And to be honest with you, I wanted to see a blue zebra.
Photo by Eric Lang

Friday, March 20, 2009

A Maze of Death

photo - Jeff Sillcox

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Enough said

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Lots of sending

Let's start with the biggest send of all...

Okay, now that we have that out of the way... Lisa sent Haroun and the Sea of Stories (V11/12ish) this morning!

photos - Jeff Sillcox

More photos of Lisa on Haroun on Wills' blog.

Cory crushed Form Destroyer (V12) this afternoon after I broke part of the starting hold.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

I managed to climb Xavier's Roof (V11) and A Maze of Death (V12) on back to back days. Photo of Justin sending Xavier's Roof on Wills' blog. And a couple of me on A Maze of Death.

photos - Alex Johnson

And Alex finished up A Birthing Experience (V1) after a couple days of work...

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Stained Glass Right

I managed to claw my way up Stained Glass Right (V11) yesterday. It was painful, but has some fun moves on it. Well, maybe one fun move... No pictures, but I have a couple of Paul on it last season.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

The fun move... unfortunately, at this point your fingers are in so much pain that you can't enjoy it.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

And no post with photos of Paul would be complete without a shot of the Rasta project.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

random quote of the day:

Jeff: and become a photography/hobo
whew... that took three tries

Eric: you certainly not become engrish teacher... maybe you join traveling spelling circus

Friday, March 6, 2009

Night session

Jeff H. and I did a quick night session yesterday after I spent a couple hours trying A Maze of Death in the afternoon.

The White Mountains at sunset.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Jeff H. about to launch on Iron Fly.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Me not quite sticking the "jug". I finally got it after 20+ tries last night plus the other 100 or so times I'd tried it. I suck at dynos.

photo - Jeff Honeywell

And and few more sunrise photos from last week...

photos - Jeff Sillcox

Check out Justin's latest couple posts for some photos and video of more Bishop action from the last week and Wills' blog for some sweet FA photos and video.