Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Stop Breeding...

The subject of this blog was inspired by a truck that I saw on my way home for lunch... (please click the picture to observe the writing in the window)


Photo - Eric Lang

Just in case you are as near-sighted (read: short sighted) as the owner of this vehicle is, the back window reads: start drilling. As if the slightly lifted, F250 with king cab and cap, Idaho tags, and an EPA estimated 12 MPG wasn't enough to clue you in... I would like you all to know that I found this truck so intriguing (or mind numbing... I haven't recovered yet) I actually brought my camera back to work after lunch.

I really don't want to get into this since I have yet to make up my mind about further oil exploration, but I am sure I have spent more time thinking about this subject, than this guy has spent thinking about... well... anything in his life.

I don't mean to be so judgmental (actually I do) but I just wish people would think of long term effects of their actions instead of trying to get cheaper gas at the pump (for about a week)... idiot...

sorry and back to climbing... later

Oh and by the way Jeff, you can't get mad since you posted about the price of gas a while back!

Thursday, September 18, 2008

New Problem update 6 of 6

For the next couple of weeks, I'll be driving this thing. But don't expect me to makes too many stops... since I am incredibly lazy...


Photo and Lighting - Eric Lang

It was a busy weekend on the Talladega Nights boulder, with "I'm Too Drunk to Taste This Chicken" seeing approximately 400 sends (slight over exaggeration) over the course of two days, and the "Paralyzed Project" seeing its first and second ascents. Due to a combination of Wes' unwillingness to crimp harder and my unwillingness to do Drunk Chicken on my first go and Jeff's unwillingness to tie Randy's hand behind his back, I missed the second ascent of Drunk Chicken by mere minutes... Kudos to Randy for the flash!


Shannon eyeing up the crux of "Drunk Chicken (for short)", V6
Photo - Eric Lang

In good style, Jeff sent his project that he had been "too busy" (aka too lazy to move pads down the hill) to send, on his second attempt of the day (I believe). The following day (under a false name and shrouded in secrecy) Wills sent as well.


Jeff on "Paralyzed", V9?
Photo - Eric Lang


Jeff on "Paralyzed", V9?
Photo - Eric Lang


I also climbed with Wes and Way Lake newcomer, Mike T. aka Big Dumb Animal... Mike had a great day flashing Crimp Ladder V7 and sending Meadow Roof stand V8! Meanwhile, Wes was working his nicknames such as Mr. Inviso, Pigpen, or Capt. Chalk Dust... You can decide based on several of the pictures in the slideshow... CLICK ME!

...and as you can see below, we had a blast at Jeff's place without him! Have fun in Joe's and SLC and the RRG... we won't use the oven!

Photo - Eric Lang

Oh and if anyone is interested, I have re-FA'd Hosemonster (now V8?) due to a very important hold "disappearing"... thanks Wes, stop drinking porkchop milkshakes...

Still to come... bugs, Tram, etc...

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Breaking News


Isaac sent the project on the Meadow Roof boulder today. He called it Chumscrubber and gave it the big V12. (See Wills, I told you it wasn't V9.) Wills is close also and I'm hoping to get it done before I go sportclimbing and lose all my power. And Lisa continues to plow her way through the hard lines at Way Lake with a quick send of Prune Candy (V9).

Isaac Caldiero working out the moves on his Chumscrubber (V12).

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Lots of rock climbing happened this weekend also, but I didn't take very many photos. Here's one of Lyn sending One Dragon. This is a tough one to grade for some reason and the votes range from V5-V8 right now.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

And a couple new problems went up: Justin added Sacrificial Sherpa (V8) which is pretty scary (I'm the Sherpa). And I added a link up of Green Mamba and Penis Envy called Green Penis (duh).

Almost forgot about Beth's linkup of Donkey Kong into the start of Donkey Kong Jr. dubbed Princess Peach. No idea how hard this one is, but probably V5 or 6ish. Picture on Justin's blog.

Thursday, September 4, 2008

(Old) New Problem Update #5 of 5

I must first apologize for accidentally double posting. I thought I fixed the problem by deleting the post, but I realized that all of the people who have a subscription to the blog have gotten the update and saw three pictures with no words... I so dum...

Here is a problem Abbie put up a few weeks ago called "S is for Shame." Its in the V3 - V4 range. Here are some pictures of her resending the problem this weekend.


photo - Eric Lang


photo - Eric Lang


photo - Eric Lang

More blogs to follow but you'll have to wait

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Girls Crushing Way Lake


Lots of problems getting repeated lately, and since the current rage is all about FFA's (First Female Ascents), here are a few female firsts at Way Lake.

Lisa sending Meadow Roof SDS (V9).


photos - Jeff Sillcox

I squeaked out the FA of the compression line to the right last Thursday and Wills and Lisa got the 2nd and 3rd ascents on their next tries. It's V8ish and I called it Black Buddha.

Lisa also did Meadow Face (V9), Karate Kid (V8/9), and Two Dragons (V9); all of which might be harder since I can't grade anything accurately.

Some new friends came over from the west side this weekend and climbed way too much stuff for me to keep track of. And since I didn't do a very good job of taking pictures, this is all you get. Beth and Lyn sending the scary Knife Dance (V7).


photos - Jeff Sillcox

I'll try to post a link to more pictures from this weekend if they end up on the internet somewhere.



Other non-female happenings:

Eric had an amazing day on Saturday sending Meadow Face (V9), Karate Kid (V8/9), and Ugly Duckling (V9).

Wills did two link-ups on the Dragon boulder. Ass Backwards (V9ish) climbs from the start of Morpheus into the end of Two Dragons and Dragon Ass (V10) climbs most of Two Dragons and then traverses left into the second half of Morpheus. Confused yet?

Wills, Isaac, and I worked on a really cool project for a while today. It has several V10ish moves in a row and Wills thinks it will be V9. He's not very good at math.