Wednesday, November 7, 2007

The Other Buttermilks

How is it that I've lived here for six years and hadn't done Checkerboard until now? I fell off the last move two years ago and knew it was a great problem, but that five minute approach managed to keep me away for a long time. Anyway, here's a couple photo galleries from the weekend and one from last night at the Sads. Click the photos for the galleries.

Way Lake

Eric working Aftershave (V9) at Way Lake
photos - Jeff Sillcox


Andrew getting really close on Checkerboard (V8) at the Buttermilks
photos - Jeff Sillcox

Sad Boulders

Running a lap on Beefcake (V10) at the Sads
photos - Jeff Sillcox & Jeff Honeywell

Uncle Rico: Kip, I reckon... you know a lot about... cyberspace? You ever come across anything... like time travel?
Kip: Easy, I've already looked into it for myself.
Uncle Rico: Right on... right on.

Wills has a new website to augment his Bishop Bouldering guidebook. It lists news, FA's, and altered problems (broken holds, grade changes, etc). Check it out: He also has a blog that anyone can join and post relevant Bishop bouldering updates, info, or news to. Tony Lamiche posted a cool video of his FA of Xavier's Roof at Dale's Camp. Check it out on And finally, Tony posted more photos from his trip on his website from the Buttermilks and Druids.

Thursday, November 1, 2007


Way Lake has a new hardest problem with Wills' FA of the seam project. It's solid V11 and Tony Lamiche nabbed the 2nd ascent right after Wills. I added a couple new problems next to Mike's Threshold of a Dream (V7). Aftershave (V9) and Taco Meat (V8) both start with a couple hard moves; Aftershave goes left on some small incuts while Taco Meat heads right into the end of a really fun V5.

We headed up to Tuolumne on Sunday to try Sharma'sThunderbird (Vhard). Tony did it in a couple tries and Wills sent quickly also despite pulling a muscle mid-problem. Noah, Lisa, and I came pretty close to doing the crux, but the real business is the scary V5 topout.

Tony setting up for the crux...
photo - Jeff Sillcox

...and eyeing up the mantle
photo - Jeff Sillcox

We stuck around for sunset to show the French how we do it in California...

Half Dome from Olmstead Point
photo - Jeff Sillcox

Stately Pleasure Dome (left) and half of Tenaya Peak over Tenaya Lake...stupid camera lens.
photo - Jeff Sillcox

Tony Lamiche has some really good shots from Sunday also. Check them out on his site: There's also some cool shots from Colorado on there. Good luck finding everything... it's in French.