Friday, October 5, 2007

Way Lake Update

It was a beautiful weekend at Way Lake. Highs were in the 50's and last week's snow had all melted.

Last week

This week

photos - Jeff Sillcox

Eric finally got up Two Dragons (V9). He did it in good style on his first go and said something about it probably only being V7. Wills got the third ascent on Sunday and thought it was definitely V9.

Eric sending Two Dragons (V9)
photos - Jeff Sillcox

We also got on a really nice looking face over a pit that I've been looking at for a while. Eric went for the FA flash and backed off the top after grabbing a pinch before a big move in the "no fall zone". I found a slightly better pinch below that one and pulled off the FA flash. Eric sent next try and we called it Secret Pinches (V5). Wills snagged a low left start to it the next day and I repeated it just after. It's probably V7 or 8 and almost as good as the original start which is one of the best problems at Way Lake.

Me on Secret Pinches (V5)
photos - Eric Lang

Jamie pulled off the FFA of Lazy Lima Bean (V1) on Saturday. Here she is repeating Candy Canes (V1) on the Food Groups boulder. Just right of this is Candy Corns (V2) and Syrup (V0).

photos - Jeff Sillcox

A big chunk of Sunday was spent on the Talladega Nights boulder. Wills got the second ascent of Prune Candy and thought it was harder than the V9 that I gave it.

Wills sending Prune Candy (V9 or 10)
photos - Jeff Sillcox

On the highball side of the face, Eric gave I'm Too Drunk to Taste this Chicken (V6) a few good attempts and came off on the last move of the crux. Hopefully he can sack up and get the second ascent without taking the big fall.

Eric trying I'm Too Drunk to Taste this Chicken (V6)
photos - Jamie Kulju

I tried the project to the left and got about halfway up before jumping off. It feels at least V8 and really scary.

Me trying the I'm So Paralyzed project
photos - Jamie Kulju

Wills did the FA of the wave project by throwing a crazy dyno for the top... scariest spot I've ever given. He said it was V10ish and we're still waiting for a name. I tried it a few times and it's definitely hard. I'm trying a different sequence that doesn't involve putting my foot right next to my hand and throwing 5ft to the top. It feels really hard but a lot less scary than the jump method.

Wills settled on Wavecatcher for his new problem.

And finally, we spent some time working another project that will be at least V11 and at least 15 stars (out of 5). Eric has dubbed it The Freight Train and it feels like the rock is tearing your body in half.

Looks like Bishop this weekend since it's snowing in Mammoth right now. It will be nice to try some established problems so I can get an idea of how hard all the new Way Lake problems are. Some people think I've been sandbagging a bit...

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