Friday, October 12, 2007

Bishop Preseason


It's almost Bishop bouldering season and I'm not excited yet. It's autumn and the temps are perfect for Way Lake, Rock Creek, Tuolumne, and numerous other summer bouldering areas. But since nature isn't cooperating right now, I've had to venture down to the Owen's Valley a little earlier than normal.

The weatherman said we weren't going to get much from this storm...

photo - Jeff Sillcox

He lied. Anyway, we ended up in Bishop where it's always nice.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Except for the crowds

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Eric managed to finish off Acid Wash (V10) in the blazing heat and we both got pretty worked trying Goldfish Trombone (V13/14).

Eric Lang wearing the wrong pants on Acid Wash (V10)
photo - Jeff Sillcox


Sunday was pretty unproductive because of the heat but I did play around on the Buttermilker SDS (V12/13) to remember the moves. It felt pretty good and I'm excited to finish it off as soon as temps allow. Here's a photo from a couple seasons ago.

photo - Eric Lang

I was tricked into going back to the Buttermilks on Wednesday despite the crappy temps. It was too hot to pull on small holds so I ran a lap on Hero Roof (V0+) and set to work on the Wheel of Cheese project. For those of you who don't know about this amazing linkup in the cave, let me explain. You can see some of the line in the photo above. It begins on Shelter From the Storm (V6) (right side of photo under the hole) and traverses high into the end of Little Forgotten (V9) and finishes with the topout of the Buttermilker.

Jamie Kulju on Inner Sanctum (V2), part of the first third of Wheel of Cheese (V10)
photo - Eric Lang


Now, I'm not a sportclimber so I'm not exactly sure about the grade, but I'm guessing it's around V10 or maybe 5.13 something. It's 25 moves and I fell off the end a bunch (in between naps) because I have no endurance. Maybe it's only V8. Time will tell as I'm sure many people will be lining up for it this winter. I don't have any photos of the send because everyone gave up on me and left for the day, but here's a photo that sums it all up...

Some dude wearing a sweet tux and holding a giant
Wheel of Cheese (V10/5.13/18000 calories)


Here's an old video of Bubba Gump (V10) from when the temps were good.
video
video - Jim Sillcox

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