Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Mandala Direct Video

Wade David posted some footage of my FA last spring of Mandala Direct (V12).

Wade relocated the footage to Vimeo...

And since I can't have a post with no pictures in it...

Don't try this at home. I went first so I could hang out on big holds, while everyone else was in varying degrees of discomfort... especially Drew at the bottom on the small holds.

Me, Eric, Nate, Jim, and Drew on The Hunk (V2), Buttermilks.

photos - Adam Stoltenberg

And if you want more of The Mandala, check out my first post in the archive section over there somewhere ------------------>

Wednesday, January 23, 2008


Vic Copeland did the first ascent of Integration (V8ish) this past weekend near the tablelands. He posted a little blurb about it on Jeff H., Wills, and I checked it out yesterday...

It starts on a perfect sloper rail and climbs straight up on really cool edges. Sort of reminds me of Joe's Valley except that it's solid mud instead of perfect sandstone.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

There's a little "fall in the creek" potential on the topout, but the jug probably won't break...

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Wills pulling through the crux...

photo - Jeff Sillcox

The original plan was to climb it by headlights since it's right off the road which would have made for really cool pictures. Something like this, but with a climber on it... you get the idea.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Friday, January 18, 2008

Big Sends

Lisa Rands finished the Mandala (V12) today, beating Eric to the first female ascent. Here she is working it last spring:

This huge deadpoint was the crux for Lisa, while pulling through off the tiny crimp is the crux for most of us (2nd picture).

photos - Jeff Sillcox

Neither move looked hard today, so as soon as she hit the crimp in the right spot, the rest was a formality.

Matt Birch made a quick ascent of Direction (V13) and Wills and I both fell off the end of it. I finished my day with perhaps the most impressive send of the day: An untied-approach-shoe-flash of a problem that was supposed to take me at least six tries... unfortunately, it was on plastic at Andrew's home wall. And Wills salvaged his day by shooting video of Lisa on the Mandala that will surely show up on one of those other climbing websites soon.

Thursday, January 17, 2008

The Good Mud

With the Buttermilks still melting out, Jim and I were forced to spend a lot of time in the tablelands. And while it's not the perfect rock we'd like to be climbing on, there's still some pretty good mud to play around on.

Jim getting crushed on attempt #20 on Orange Crush (V7), Happy Boulders

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Powering up for the send with a rock that looks freakishly like a chocolate chip cookie

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Jim sending Orange Crush (V7)

video - Jeff Sillcox
edited by - Jim Sillcox

Andrew, Jim, and Eric on Los Locos (V7), Sad Boulders

photos - Jeff Sillcox

Eric found an easier way on, but since the crux is at the end...

photo - Jim Sillcox

Jim trying to find his way out of the dark on Enter the Dragon (V9), Sad Boulders

photo - Jeff Sillcox

This one's been on my list for a long time... Lawnmower Man (V7), Sad Boulders

video - Jim Sillcox

Eric, running a second lap on Grindrite (V3), Happy Boulders

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Eric hoping he doesn't roll down the hill on Atari (V6), Happy Boulders

photo - Jim Sillcox

Jeff Honeywell wondering how he's going to top it out with me hanging over the top taking pictures

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Jeff H. sending Atari (V6)

video - Jim Sillcox

Jeff H. squeezing his way up Not Another Brit in Bishop (V7), Happy Boulders

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Thursday, January 10, 2008

Ol' Man River

Sorry for the quick bump Eric, but Blogmania must go on. And you live in LA and I shoveled an LA touron out so Ipso facto, I'm your boss.

Some clowns from LA trying to drive their two wheel drive SUV through a foot of snow...

photo - Jim Sillcox

Since the big storm, this has been the only climbable piece of rock above 6000 feet.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Hey Andy, want to pad-sled the Grandpa Peabody?

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Jim trying to find some sun on Not the Clapper (V1), Happies (yes, he's wearing a wetsuit)

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Ol' Man River downclimbing Old Ass Truck (V96) (also his age). We've spent more time digging people out (of our way) than climbing.

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Jim recovering from a football in the groin...

photo - Jeff Sillcox

Me working Direction (V13), (yes, I would try to top it out if I got up there)

photo - Jim Sillcox

So, for anyone planning on going to the Buttermilks this weekend, bring your own shovel because I'm leaving mine at home this time.

Thursday, January 3, 2008

Da Deeerrrty Souf' (The Southeast)

Although my blog-posting whereabouts during Jeff's "Blogmania 2007-2008" were not fully understood by modern scientists, one thing is for sure; it was not due to training for a half-marathon. During the time in question, I would describe my daily training routine as nothing short of lazy, "non-training" for a half-marathon, and trying to prevent my entire left arm from falling off due to numerous "chinks" in the soft tissue armor...

Now that my half-marathon is complete (with unexpected success), I can dedicate a very limited portion of my highly valuable time to entertaining you (the reader) and Jeff (my blog-nazi boss). The rest (a significantly larger portion) of my time will be dedicated to training and trying not to fall so far behind my cohort. Sorry readers, I've got a madman to catch, and i only know one (well maybe more than one) way to do it....

So other than gyroballin’, I’ll probably spend my time climbing in Bishop (weather permitting), doing some exercising (to get down to my fighting weight… you know, in case I get in a fight), and looking at pictures and videos of rock climbing!

Lately, I've been thinking about how much I miss climbing in the south east… little tiny chicken sandwiches from Krystal Burger, fresh cinnamon biscuits from Bojangles, the terrified looks of hostesses at the Golden Corral as a family of 800 pound people arrive in their Ford F-450000 wearing tool belts filled with silverware (well maybe that’s a bit of an over exaggeration)…. Oh yea, there’s some bouldering there too!

Eric showing he knows how to be America's Next Top Model on Sherman Photo Roof(V7, Rocktown, GA)

Photo by Mike Hartley

Some may not know where Eric, the "Great White," ends and Great White (V7, Horse Pens 40, AL) begins... although others may know...
Photo by Mike Hartley

Derek Spencer staring fondly into his glazing gobe...or is it gazing globe...or is he simply climbing The Orb (V8, Rocktown, GA)?
Photo by Mike Hartley

Eric about to fall into the Cahulawassee River while reaching for his banjo...errrr... or on Slabalicious (V7, Horse Pens 40, AL)
Photo by Mike Hartley

Unlike Derek, Eric likes his Orb (V8, Rocktown, GA) smothered, covered, and topped (that sounds dirty) just like his Wafflehouse hashbrowns... mmm
Photo by Mike Hartley

Eric showing how cool his hand is on Super Koola (V6, Horse Pens 40, AL), but who can eat more eggs than Luke???
Photo by Mike Hartley

Sorry about the lack of diversity and the quality of the photos, as they are old and small. The southeast is actually an awesome place with great climbing and nice people. If you ever want to do some pullin' on some sweet stone, then look no further than Horse Pens 40, Rocktown, Boone, Little Rock City, Boat Rock, etc. Just makes sure you check the weather conveniently located on the sidebar of the page! Someday, I'll have to get Jeff down there so he can be right at home with all the sandbagging...

Next... Hueco!

Wednesday, January 2, 2008

Dairy Products

This post was supposed to be about the dairy related problems in the cave at the Buttermilks like Lactose Intolerant (V5) and Wheel of Cheese (V10). But I have all these pictures from non-dairy boulders at the Buttermilks and Pollen Grains and I did The Mystery (V12) instead of the Buttermilker. Anyway, here are a couple galleries from the weekend. Click the photos for the galleries.

Eric suspended in silence on Suspended in Silence (V5) at the Pollen Grains.

photos - Jeff Sillcox

Luckily, Eric wasn't around to dab tackle me off of The Mystery (V12) when my shirt brushed the pad.

photos - Jen Sillcox