Wednesday, August 29, 2007

The Mandala


So I guess you might say I've had an obsession with The Mandala at the Buttermilks. I first climbed it in April of 2005 after several days of work. While working on it I spotted a line of holds that leads straight up the prow where the original line goes left. At first it didn't look much harder than the left finish but took almost two years and close to 30 falls off the upper crux to finally finish it. Along the way I broke a hold, changed my sequence a couple times, and landed on a dog from 15ft.

Sending the original line for the first time

photo - Bill Thompson

video
video - Jeromy Acton

Attempting the direct finish

photo - Eric Lang

Finally finishing it off. The upper crux is a big deadpoint to a good edge.

photo - Bill Thompson

So I guess all that's left is the sit start and the sit start into the direct finish (which Paul Robinson nabbed a few days after I completed the direct finish).

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